We fully support your decision to replace conventional synthetic hair dyes containing ammonia and hydrogen peroxide with natural, plant-based alternatives. Modern herbal formulations with henna, indigo, and other coloring and healing plants strengthen and improve hair health, are free from toxic and allergenic load, and allow you to maintain rich, beautiful shades over time.
This post is specifically dedicated to transitioning from chemical hair coloring to plant-based coloring, including coloring previously bleached hair. If you have never dyed your hair before, achieving excellent results with plant-based dyes is even easier.
How to Prepare for the Transition
To achieve the best results, proper preparation is essential:
- Read our blog posts with detailed information kindly provided by experts from Ayluna.
- Carefully study the instructions for using plant-based dyes.
- Follow all recommendations strictly.
Unfortunately, many salon professionals are still not familiar with this type of coloring.
What Does Proper Preparation Involve?
We are very grateful to Ayluna (whose organic hair dyes we highly recommend, as we have personally used them for many years and consider them among the best on the European market) for providing detailed guidance on this important topic:
Switching from Chemical to Natural Hair Color
Transitioning from chemical hair dyes to plant-based coloring is one of the most challenging aspects of working with natural dyes.
Chemical dyes penetrate the hair shaft, destroy natural pigments, and form new chemical color complexes inside the hair. This process differs significantly from plant-based dyes, which coat the hair externally while nourishing and strengthening it.
In addition, chemical dyes damage the hair structure by leaving tiny “voids” inside the hair shaft. These imperfections prevent plant pigments from adhering evenly. As a result, larger plant particles settle into these gaps instead of lying smoothly on the surface, which can create a dry, straw-like texture (the opposite of the usual effect of plant-based coloring).
Therefore, chemically treated hair must first recover.
It is recommended to wash the hair over an extended period using lava clay (Ghassoul powder). After approximately four weeks, begin with one or two treatments using a Cassia-based plant treatment before applying your desired shade.
Even if the first result is not exactly as expected, it will improve with each subsequent application.
Although this transition is not easy, it is absolutely worth it—especially considering the health benefits.
Application on Bleached Hair
It is generally possible to dye chemically lightened hair with plant-based colors. However, thorough preparation is essential to avoid unwanted results.
Potential issues without preparation:
- Pigments may not adhere properly
-
Strong, uneven discoloration (orange, green, blue, or violet tones)
⚠ Without proper preparation, these effects may be irreversible
Preparation:
- Apply a Cassia plant treatment 2–3 times at intervals of no more than one week
- Regularly use Ayluna Intensive Hair Oil .
Gradual color build-up:
- Mix Cassia with 20–30% Sahara blonde
- Gradually increase Sahara blonde or Honey blonde
- Once Goldblond or Honigblond is achieved, gradually introduce darker shades
This process may take several weeks to avoid unwanted permanent color changes.
⚠ Do not use acidic additives — risk of hair damage due to swelling shock.
Application on Chemically Treated Hair
Plant-based coloring on chemically dyed hair is possible after approximately 8–10 washes, provided the hair is thoroughly cleansed.
- Deep cleansing is required to remove residues such as silicones
⚠ Do not mix with acidic additives (e.g., vinegar or lemon juice) — risk of permanent damage.
Interaction Between Chemical and Plant-Based Dyes
Chemical Dye on Plant-Colored Hair
It is possible to apply chemical dyes over plant-colored hair. However, there is one critical limitation:
⚠ Hair colored with plant-based dyes must NOT be chemically lightened or bleached
This may lead to uncontrollable and unpredictable color changes.
Plant-Based Coloring and Permed Hair
Plant-Based Dye on Permed Hair
This combination is possible, but the following must be considered:
- Waiting time between perm and coloring: approx. 3 weeks
- Processing time of plant dye may be reduced
- Always perform a strand test before full application
⚠ Never use acidic additives
Perm on Plant-Colored Hair
A perm can be performed on plant-colored hair, but only by experienced professionals because:
- Processing time differs significantly from untreated hair
- Results can change rapidly within minutes
- Plant dyes create a coating layer that makes chemical penetration more difficult
- The perm effect may be less intense
⚠ Risk in inexperienced salons: leaving the perm solution on too long may cause irreversible hair damage
Switching to plant-based hair coloring is a journey that requires patience and proper preparation—but the results, both aesthetic and health-related, are truly worth it.
